Fashion Accessories of the 1920s

 The 1920s was all about having a jolly good time. The end of world war one changed the society dynamics to such an extent that things never went back to the prewar ways. Women gained the right to vote and became a part of the American workforce. The changes affected the fashion too, though men’s fashion did undergo a change, but the variations were not so drastic. Fashion for women on the other hand saw quite a fluctuation. They dressed according to their profession and chose clothes that were comfortable. The early twenties style still had a trace of traditional clothing, but as the roaring twenties came along people and fashion both became liberal.

Fashion for men had more or less been constant. The 1920s did bring a deviation and new styles but not much. During the twentieth century a man’s hat was his identity, a reflection of owner. 

Fedora hats were probably the most popular ones. The hat has a large flat brim and a domed, bowler-like crown and it became a part of the daily wear. Homburg, another well known hat was similar to Fedora, with the variation that the brim of the hat curls around instead of lying flat. As the Fedora was the hat for the middle class, the Homburg was preferred by the politicians. PorkPie was also donned in the 20s; it had a crown with a flat top. In the 20s neckties became a part of the routine outfit and the bows were reserved for black-tie occasions. 

Stripes and British regimental ties emerged during this time. Knit tie was popular in the 20s. The ties were bright colored and flamboyant. In footwear men favored spats as either two tone brogues or fringed tongue Oxford brogues. For evening wear gentlemen sported patent leather. 

The flapper’s took root in the 20s the new liberal women had developed a fashion of their own and accessories to match it! 

Cloche hats were quite famous among women, regardless of their social status, though the fineness of the material improved with their social stander. The hats were decorated with semi-precious pins. Turban style hats were similar to Cloche hats. 

They were just wrapped and adorned with feathers, flowers or gems. An extremely decorated headband called bandeau was preferred by the flappers and was present throughout the decade. Among the jewelry the strings of pearls was the donned and is still associated with the 20s. Earrings tended to be long drops and the chandelier shaped was a favorite. Bracelets were a major hit; from cuffs to battalions of bangles women would don them all. 

Regarding the shoes, women liked shoe clips with bold geometric shapes and precious stones. Women carried fancy handbags with intricate bead work done on them. The handbags were most of the time handmade. 

Fashion in during that time was colorful, extravagant, big and opulent. The accessories too were made to match perfectly. A turning point for fashion 1920s was truly the golden age!  

Flapping Fashion from the 1920s

Before world war one, women wore floor-length dresses, the waist was cinched restrained by the corset and arms and legs were always covered. But then the war ended, times changed and the world grandly entered the Roaring Twenties!

The 1920s witnessed many changes one of which was the social position of women. The 19^th Amendment passed during this time gave women the right to vote. Women had joined the workforce during the war and life beyond homemaking appealed to them.

Fashion along with every aspect of the society, had an impact. There were two distinctive styles that ruled the 1920s, the first half had a more conservative outlook, but as the roaring twenties took root women became more liberal. The latter half of the decade saw a new class of women called the ‘The Flapper’.

Flapper was the slang word, which used to refer to young bird flapping its wings while learning to fly. In 1631, the word ‘flap’ was slang for a young prostitute, but over the centuries the meaning underwent a change. In the 1920 when women wore their galoshes unbuckled it would make a flapping noise as they walked. But flappers represented women who rebelled against the norms of the society and adopted unconventional ways.

As the fussiness of prewar years dropped away, women forsook the restrictive corsets and ridiculous petticoats of bygone years. The la garconne became the new fashion, where women desired to have a figure like a teenage boy. To flatten the bust line a piece of cloth was tied around the chest. The waist was dropped to the hip in order to hide their womanly hourglass figures. The typical flappers cropped their hair into boyish bobs, they wore make-up, began to wear shorter, straight loose-fitting garments that allowed far greater freedom of movement.

Once the war ended morals and rule went for a toss. Entertainment gained importance; silent movies were on the rise and fashion magazines like Vogue was started. Instant gratification became the mantra and the night life came alive. The flappers with their new fashioned clothes, red lips and dark eyes frequented the illegal clubs where they danced to jazz music all night long, and had affairs, indiscriminately. 

They drove cars, drank, a defiant act in the American period of prohibition, and smoked through a long cigarette holder. The decade was a reckless abandonment of propriety.  

The morals may have diminished during this period but fashion sense acquired a new sensibility. Stocking attracted new attention. With the dress losing length women flaunted their stockings. 

Women would wear a string of pearls that are typical of that age. The light weight, sequenced dresses are something that still exists. The flappers revolutionized fashion added jazz into it and made the life of the coming generations a lot easier and more colorful!   

A New Chapter in Fashion History!

The year 1920 is marked as a turning point in the world of fashion. 1910 saw the silhouette rise to prominence, which was much more fluid and soft. But it was the 1920’s when fashion truly entered a modern era. Two distinctive styles characterize the 1920s; the first was relatively conservative in nature and it was only in the second half that changes started to take root.

The ‘Golden Age’ commenced with the end of World War l, and this had a great impact on all socio-cultural aspects of society including fashion. Men were busy with the war, giving women the opportunity to get out in the world as professionals. Obviously, gowns weren’t the best options for the workplace so their outfit changed to accommodate comfort. Women stared wearing pleated skirts with slits to allow movements. Women also started wearing loose pant suits that were called ‘pajama suits’.

The 1920s was filled with lively colors; designers included colors in every article of clothing. The burgeoning entertainment industry influenced the era in a major way, and Vogue magazine was also started in the 20s. Corsets became a thing of the past, while silhouettes for this decade became loose and shapeless with lighter fabrics taking center stage.

A new class of women known as ‘The Flappers’ emerged, changing women’s fashion dramatically in this era. Flappers were known to dance to jazz music, drank, smoked and had casual relationships. 

             

                               

Women cut their hair into a bob, which inspired hats that were smaller and more fitted. Hats were as colorful as the outfits themselves.

           

                                     

After hats, purses and handbags were the favored accessories. In fact, they were considered ‘eye-candy’. They came with beautiful beading and in materials like silk. Women would make one, if they were unable to afford it. In Jewelry pins and brooches were popular as they would stylishly hold clothes together.

Bathing suits made a very controversial entry during this time. They were initially very unflattering and uncomfortable, but the mid 20s saw swimsuits gain a new identity by way of form-fitting suits and vibrant colors.

Men’s fashion saw a fair few changes during the decade. Suits became slimmer with wide legged trousers, while short suit jackets were preferred and the long jacket from the previous decade was donned solely on formal occasions. V-neck sweaters with white trousers became famous. During the mid 20s, men went for shirts with attached collars, which when compared to detachable collars were much softer.  

The 1920s was packed with more fashion trends than any amount of words could suffice for. The vibrancy and liveliness of the decade are not going to end here. There is way too much to talk about, and this is just the start! 

Fashion on Wheels!

Every city in every country has a fashion boutique irrespective of it being a small studio belonging to a local designer or huge fancy French label with a price tag to match. A boutique has been a prominent part of the fashion industry since centuries. But over the years the dynamics have changed. Technological evolution has done wonders, creating a globalized market and online stores seem to be the way forward nowadays. Many designers have taken this route and tasted success. Then there is this whole other bunch of people who have used limited resources and pushed the boundaries of conventional methods and taken up a journey on new roads, literally!

Food trucks are not a foreign idea, but there are some creative minds that have gone a step ahead and converted the small cramped up place into an elegant ‘Fashion Truck’. A huge hit on international streets, particularly in America, Canada and London, a fashion truck is like a mini boutique on wheels. Many individuals have started this fashion truck and are now roaming the streets successfully.

One of the first to use fashion trucks was Le Fashion Truck that was Co-founded by Stacey Steffe and Jeanine Romo. The truck started roaming the streets of Los Angeles since 2011. One fine morning while promoting their own products like vintage handbags and handmade jewelry at a local farmer’s market, Stacey saw a food truck pass by and an idea struck her of having a store on wheels. 

     

                                 

And thus Le Fashion Truck was born. Though their idea was considered incredulous, over the years they have established themselves as full-fledged retail stores, just with wheels attached!  

The roads of San Francisco saw its first fashion truck in 2012 when Christina Ruiz launched TopShelf Boutique. A slick grey truck with a women’s silhouette, the TopShelf features vintage women’s clothing and accessories by local designers.

 It is also known for upcycled items, which is a process of converting waste materials or useless products into new materials of better quality and better environment value.

Another example of this can be found in Los Angeles, outside the Bay Area, where Jordana Fortaleza and Tyler Kenney launched JD Luxe. The vibrant truck features a mixed range of bohemian street wear and accessories. Besides these there are Street Boutique, Gypsy de la Lune, Curvy Chix Chariot, Passionista Fashion Truck and many more that are getting fashion on the streets.

This new trend in the fashion industry has spread like wildfire in the west, but will take a long time to reach India. Compared to opening a store a truck would cost less and it also conveniently drives directly to your target consumers. It also provides a more intimate environment for shoppers. Though starting a fashion truck is not a piece of cake since it requires determination and forward thinking, it is nonetheless absolutely possible to see on the streets of India!

Between The Pages of Fashion: Five Fashion Books You Must Read

Fashion is a creative field and though practical knowledge is stressed on, reading and researching is equally important. Many don’t know where to start and therefore here is a list of the top five books that all aspirants should have in their bookshelf.

Adorned in Dreams by Elizabeth Wilson: 

First published in 1985 and now updated, Elizabeth Wilson wrote ‘Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity’ to put forth an argument from a feminist perspective. Over the years this book has gained a place among the best books ever written on the significance of fashion. From haute couture to haberdashery, Wilson traces the social-cultural history of fashion. 

Fashion Entrepreneur: Starting Your Own Fashion Business by Sandra Burke: 

Sandra Burke’s book concentrates on the business aspect of the fashion industry and will help you navigate the glamorous roads of the fashion world. Packed with interviews, case studies, imagery from prestigious fashion entrepreneurs and inspiring fashion illustrations, this book has all the knowledge you’ll need to become a fashion entrepreneur.

The Fashion Designer Survival Guide, Revised and Expanded Edition: Start and Run your own Fashion by Mary Gehlhar: 

Fashion is a tough business to crack and even tougher to survive in, hence this book. Fashion luminaries like Donna Karan, Tommy Hilfiger, Cynthia Rowley, Diane von Furstenberg and Richard Tyler have shared words of wisdom regarding the latest trends in apparel and accessories. The book comes in handy while planning a viable business plan and covers each topic, from finding the best source of fabric and materials to marketing to running a successful fashion show. 

Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion edited by Valerie Steele: 

Director of the Fashion Institute of Technology Museum, Valerie Steele has created an encyclopedia with the help of 325 contributors. The encyclopedia is an authoritative introduction to the fashion industry. Containing 640 articles on every component of couture and textiles, the book also includes color plates and 600 black-and-white illustrations. This is a book every fashion aspirant should own; after all knowledge is power!

Dressed: A Century of Hollywood Costume Design by Deborah Nadoolman Landis: 

This one is a must-have for all, the costume designers out there. Deborah journeys through the lavish golden age of Hollywood to the present day and maps it all. Costumes speak a language of their own; many characters have become memorable through their costumes. The book is a mini-exhibition of one hundred years of Hollywood’s most enticing costumes. So next time if you are looking for inspiration you know which book to pick!

If you are a reading enthusiastic there are other brilliant books on fashion like Designing Design by Kenya Hara, Costume Patterns and Designs by Max Tilke and Designer’s Guide to Fashion Apparel by Evelyn L. Brannon that you can browse through. 

There are just so many inspiring books in this genre that should be read to gain inspiration, knowledge or just for the pleasure of reading! 

Designing Costumes for Films

Sridevi’s blue sari from Mr. India or Madhuri Dixit’s purple one from Hum Aapke Hain Kaun have set trends in their days, and in the recent years almost all looks donned by actresses like Kareena Kapoor or Katrina Kaif in their movies have made fashion statements. 

                                

The world of cinema reaches wide taking fashion with it and though a fashion designer is the one creating the outfits, but the credit for the fabulous looks is also shared by a Costume Designer who puts the look of the character together.

A Costume Designer is someone who is responsible for designing costumes for theater or movies. There has always been a misconception that a Fashion Designer and a Costume Designer are one and the same profession. They may belong to the same domain, but they are far from being the same. A Fashion Designer solely creates for him/herself and a Costume Designer creates to define a character.

The job description of a Costume Designer entitles them to work closely with the director, writer and everyone involved creatively with the film. Their designs are based on the script of the film or drama. Here garments are adding and enhancing the character according to the story and a designer has to make sure that they get the costumes of the characters absolutely right because many a times the way a character is dressed defines their role. This is especially applicable for period movies as a culture of an era can be reflected in the clothes of that time for which a designer cannot commit an error. Indian movies are very colorful and of a wide range of genres. A single movie can represent the varied facets of our society and a designer has to create different looks that are associated with all those facets.   

    Neeta Lulla                           Manish Malhotra                         Xerxes Bhathena             

Neeta Lulla is an excellent role model for young costume designers. Manish Malhotra and Xerxes Bhathena are some of the names that have started their career as costume designers.

Any aspirant entering this line of work has to follow more or less the same career path as a Fashion Designer. The first step of which is of course formal education and from there the next step is making your portfolio and internship. A costume designer needs to have the talent of a fashion designer along with the creative sensibility to understand the character for which they are creating the look. Whistling Woods Neeta Lulla School of Fashion is one of the few fashion institutes which encompass these different aspects and gives a chance to explore boundaries.