The Forgotten Art - Rogan

The influence of western culture is all too visible in our country, which has its benefits. But the drawback to this ever-increasing westernization is the slow death of some of the best art forms of our own land. Fortunately in places like Nirona, a dusty, dry village in Kutch, the art of Rogan is still alive. A rare and intricate art form, Rogan is an oil-based painting done on cloth.

Practiced for nearly three hundred years, the history of this art form is vague. Said to have originated in Persia, Rogan in Persian literally means oil based painting. The traditional Rogan flower motifs and designs speak of a Persian influence. Peshawar, Lahore, Punjab, Baroda and Kutch were some of the states where the art was practiced. But over the centuries it has faded away and at present Nirona is the only place left where the art still persists. Passed down seven generations, the sons of the Khatri family are the only one continuing the legacy. 

Abdul Gafoor (right) and his uncle Hasan display Rogan art works

Used as a substitute for embroidering, Rogan painting on cloth gives the impression of embroidery. The effect is generated due to the surface application of paste which has an embossed and shiny look akin to embroidery. Rogan is used to decorate mostly the garment of bridal trousseau like Ghagharas, Odhana, Chabla, and Dharajo. Bed sheets, pillow cases, quilts, wall-hanging are also made along with saris. 

Abdul Gafur Khatri

Rogan has an elaborated method, of which making colors is extremely critical. Castor oil is heated for over twelve hours and casted into cold water, this produces a thick residue called ‘Rogan’ which is then mixed with colors. 

During ancient times only indigenous colors from flowers, soil or rocks were used, now however ready-made pigmentation are available. 

Sitting crossed legs on the floor with only one’s hand to support the cloth is the way to create the magnificent design. The delicate design is created by using stylus or wooden stick on one half of the cloth, which is then folded carefully on a center line, pressing lightly and effectively stamping the design on the remaining half of the cloth. 

Rogan is on the verge of extiction, but not completely vanished mostly because of the attraction it holds for tourists. The ancient, beautiful and intricate art is a reflection of our culture and heritage that needs to be revived and preserved.
      

     

‘Revolution’-ary French Fashion

The French Revolution, a critical turning point in world politics, marked an era of strife, and this is visible in the simplicity of the clothing of that age as well. In 1791 mass production found favor and shops were established in Paris where ready-to-wear clothing was available. Economic constraints hindered the use of silks, velvets, ribbons and laces. Instead cheaper materials, especially cotton, became common. Rebels of both genders flaunted their patriotism by wearing the tricolor of Bleu, Blanc and Et Rouge (blue, white and red).

Social disparity was a major issue during the 1780s, and clothing is a symbol of status at times. In order to eradicate the aristocratic vestiges, a sort of ‘uniform’ was adopted. This included bed gowns, jackets flared out at the hip, skirts, petticoats, aprons, and neck cloths. 

Sober and darker colors emphasized the severity of the revolution. Mostly the tricolor or the national cockade appeared on every costume, it was exceedingly dangerous to be seen without it in the days when one government kept succeeding another.

The color black was the most prominent in men’s clothing, silk and velvet were replaced by cloth and leather. The masses came to be known as ‘Sans-culottes’, a phrase that referred to the ‘long trousers’ worn by the lower classes, which were celebrated in direct contradiction to the ‘knee breeches’ fashion of the aristocracy.

1795-99 was relatively calmer and some semblance of normalcy was gained. Disgruntled youth and artist ushered this regime in style. A new subculture of fashionable aristocratic held balls and started fashion trends, creating the Incroyables (incredible) men and their counterpart the Merveilleuses (marvelous women). 

Outrageous fashion was displayed by both Incroyables and Merveilleuses; the women wore light or even transparent linen and gauze, at times so revealing they were termed ‘woven air’ and dresses were straight or Empire line. Enormous hats and sandals were tied above the ankle with crossed ribbons or strings of pearls.

Men were eccentric, green jackets, wide trousers, huge neckties, thick glasses and hats topped by ‘dog ears’. But society took a more sober and modest turn at the end of this period. 

Niddhi Gala, a student of Whistling Woods Neeta Lulla School of Fashion, drew inspiration from the French and has created outfits of this revolutionary era. Studying the culture and understanding the fashion of the time, Niddhi’s creations have truly captured the essence of the French Revolution!    

  

Springing to life!

                                                                                        

                                         

Spring is here! A season filled with sunshine, lazy days, and vibrant colors that radiate throughout your wardrobe. This season soft pastels were balanced with vivid bright hues. A mixture of ever-inspiring nature and free spirited travel has been an inspiration for this palette which refreshes, revives and defies conventions. We have narrowed down the must-haves colors for men and women.

For Women

Placid Blue:

Radiating a sense of tranquility, Placid Blue induces a sense of peace. Use this color to add a touch of serenity to your wardrobe by adding handbags, clutches or even belts in this pastel shade.

Sand: 

Conjuring images of sun, sand and beach, Sand is the ideal summer color. Versatile in its use, this color can be parried with pretty much any shade. With denims, it makes for perfect street wear, while a Sand color pencil skirt along with white or black shirt completes a formal look. As part of a glamorous sequined cocktail dress, sand can be ravishing too.

Radiant Orchid: 

Crowned as the color of the year, Radiant Orchid, as the name goes is a radiant and vibrant shade to possess this season. A perfect harmony between fuchsia and purple with undertones of pink, it is perfectly matched with pastel colors. It is a feminine color without being overly girly.

Dazzling Blue: 

This brilliant shade of blue adds some dazzle to any pastel palette. Dazzling blue is an eye catching color but compliments most colors beautifully. Wear it as loose trousers or jumpsuits.

Celosia Orange: 

A warm hue, Celosia Orange flatters the Indian skin tone. Pairing it with Violet Tulip will create a captivating look. 

For Men

Paloma: 

This neutral shade of grey is a must-have in a man’s wardrobe and is a soul-mate to vibrant shades.

Freesia: 

Inspired by the tropical florals, Freesia has made quite an impression on the runway. It is best to pick up this shade of yellow in natural fabrics.

Purple haze: 

A bolder adaptation of violet tulip, purple haze has a hint of vintage which gives it a classic and confident appearance. Paloma will complement this masculine color flawlessly.

Cayenne: 

A refined version of the blazing vermillion red, Cayenne stills maintains the fieriness of vermillion. It will look best in a pair of pants, a sporty jacket or pick up a strappy watch or sneakers in this color for the ultimate casual look. 

Now you know the trend-setting colors for this season, but don’t limit yourself. The world is made up of innumerable colors, so get out there play, experiment and explore!

Reviving Victorian Fashion

One of the most exceptional times in history, the Victorian era saw some revolutionary fashion trends.  The 18^th century concentrated mostly on men’s fashion, but the tables were turned when Queen Victoria came to the throne in 1837, ushering in an era of new inventions, philosophy and fashion!

The silhouette fluctuated during the long era.  The most appealing trait of this epoch is the lively style of embellishments in the garments. Full skirts with puffed sleeves was supported by an array of petticoats, corsets and chemises over which the gowns were worn.  These were used to modestly accentuate a woman’s body.

Day dresses consist of a bodice with narrow sleeves while evening gowns had a low neckline and were worn off the shoulder with shawls. Trimmings were applied mostly in a manner that was wide at the shoulder, narrowing towards the waist and then again widening at the end of the skirt, emphasizing the laced waistline.

There was a slight change in the 1850’s. The number of petticoats increased, the size of skirts expanded and the sleeves became wider. Flounces became quite popular, which when added to the gown, giving it an even wider look. The neckline for daytime dresses during the 1850’s would be more open compared to later years.   

                                                              

Flounces continued in the later years, in fact more prominent and popular. They gained so much popularity that fabrics were specially milled for flounces and colors and patterns were designed to be cut into strips. The bodices were softened with folds or gathering the fabric over the bust which was known as the ‘fan’ bodice.

The late 1850’s saw the entry of crinoline. The hoop was round in shape and had a voluptuous design. The skirts were made of straight widths of fabric pleated into a waistband. Another trend that gained popularity in this time was the jacket bodice that extended over the hips. 

                           

                 

Another important piece of garment without which the Victorian gown is incomplete is the hat. Stereotypically thought as enormous, laden with flower and feather, they too underwent an evolution. The era closed with wide-brimmed hats covered with elaborate creations of silk flowers, ribbons and exotic plumes.

Influenced by this glorious age, students from Whistling Woods Neeta Lulla School of Fashion created Victorian fashion. Rashmi Thakur, a fashion aspirant has created costumes from the early Victorian era. Modeling the full skirt, puffed sleeves and the elaborate hat, Rashmi looks like every bit as lovely as her dress!  

A look at the fashion world

Fashion shows are over and done with; it is that time where the designers are biting their nails and anxiously waiting for the reviews. Critiquing is as important as the event itself. Every designer wants to win the adulation of the masses. Knowledge about one’s art is extremely important, understanding colors, cuts, the fall of fabric and the myriad details that go into making an outfit.

Whistling Woods International’s innovative ‘Fashion Club’ comprises of students with more than just a passing interest in fashion. Aditya Mandre and Priyanka Pai, MBA students and members of the ‘Fashion Club’, have critiqued the Spring-Summer 2014 Paris Couture for which they received a certificate of appreciation and they have done such a wonderful job that we had to share it.

 

Valentino

Valentino shouted out loud of the age old tradition of opera and romanticism in the frothy tulle dresses and impeccably stark, almost colorless columns. 

Armani Prive

The word hodgepodge would describes Armani Prive‘s collection correctly, a mixture of eastern cultures, portraying free-spirited women looking at the world with curious eyes. His ‘Nomade’ collection ranged from pale grey to navy tined with splendid embroiders and embellishments, with a hint of gypsy and a whole lot of sophistication.

Christian Dior

Christian Dior found his inspiration in the modern, young and free world which was reflected in the delicate fabrics and decorative patterns which has a sense of freedom, intimacy, transparency and the rise of feminism. 

Atelier Versace

Atelier Versace’s collection saw sultry gowns, elegant cocktail dresses, shorts and separates adding dazzle and glamour with a vibrant palette. Decoration mimicked tattoos and the use of translucent fabrics that enhanced the elegance of the collection.

Viktor & Rolf

Viktor & Rolf attempted to blur the lines between skin and clothing by using specially treated latex. By doing so they created beautifully draped, fluid ballet dresses and hybrid leotards.

Elie Saab

Inspired by Sir Lawrence Alma-Tadema, a 19^th century painter, Elie Saab created a delicate collection in which roses and lilacs bloomed on organza and tulle fabrics. The botanical features were accompanied by the embellishment of appliquéd crystals. 

Schiaparelli

Schiaparelli with a dramatic elegance and playful colors created an appealing and feminine collection. 

Zuhair Murad

An alluring fantasy created by Zuhair Murad’s floral appliqué and pastel hues accessorized in gold leaf belts, beside the bridal gown, made for an unforgettable collection.

Maison Martin Margiela

Always innovative, Maison Martin Margiela has created a wearable couture collection. Titled ‘Artisanal’, the concept was to combine vintage pieces from around the world and they crafted a stunning yet offbeat line of collection using vintage fabrics pieces, and junk decoration likes of which were buttons, plastic pearls, silver chains and coins.

Vionnet

 

Vionnet remained true and loyal to its undying spirit and the legacy for fragile fabrics, the impeccable cuts and light as breeze sheers stole the show. 

Alexandre Vauthier

Alexandre Vauthier, known for his racy dresses and gowns, did not disappoint this season. His collection played to extra-long fringes and intricate leather barding.

 

Bouchra Jarrar

Unapologetically obsessed with everyday-clothes, Bouchra Jarrar’s collection is a mix of classic redingotes and biker jackets with diagonal zippers and encrusted with crystals, the designer wanted to ‘catch the light’ which she certainly has.

Ulyana Sergeenko

Highly inspired and mesmerized by Kazakhstan, Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan Ulyana Sergeenko’s collection is sensual and strong, draped in garments enhancing their beauty.

Chanel

A sporty version of evening wear complete with athletic accessories, embroidered tweed, sculpted corsets and lace chiffon in diaphanous silver and pearly shades were the show stealers for Chanel. 

Alexis Mabille

Alexis Mabille created a serenely beautiful collection which was exquisite in its making. 

Giambattista Valli

A blend of fairytale and modern princess Giambattista Valli’s collection, lavishly decorated with magnificent colors, set the show on fire. 

With such a spectacular fashion season to look forward to, it is going to be one hot summer!