Fabrics in fashion- Basics of Handloom and Jacquard

Fabrics used in fashion and textile design are broadly of two major categories. Hand woven fabrics that are manually woven in looms or popularly called Handloom fabrics. The other kinds, woven in power loom or technically called Jacquards. The major difference between Handloom and Jacquard is that handloom fabrics are woven with clear warps and wefts, whereas, Jacquard fabrics are complex to weave as they are woven with repetitive patterns. 

There are 3 major Handloom fabrics which are widely used in textile design:

Cotton: The most common, widely used fabric with usage ranging from apparels to home décor. The fabric is skin friendly and has infinite scope in fashion designing.

Silk: This is one of the strongest natural fabric that is hand woven. Silk is known for its luster and elegance. Because of its exclusivity, and subtlety, yet rich in feel, silk is widely used for exclusive fashion.

Jute: A highly durable, strong fabric, Jute traditionally was used for making bags. But with evolution in fashion, Jute, as a fabric has joined the mainstream fashion as designers are experimenting with jute.

Jacquard woven fabrics are:

Damask- This is a reversible kind of fabric that comes mostly in floral, geometrical, scrolls foliage, and ornamental motifs. The Damask fabric has a subtle sheen that becomes noticeable in light.

Brocade- Brocade is a favorite with designers because of the multicolored silk threads used to weave the fabric. They are richly decorative fabrics and suitable for heavy apparel and outerwear. There is an addition of a supplementary weft that gives the illusion of ‘embossing’ on the cloth.

Dobby- Dobby is a patterned fabric and characterized by unique geometric patterns and extra texture on the cloth. It is often considered a tad fancy and comes is all patterns, colors, weights, and textures.

Checks & Stripes- Checks and stripes are created with alternating warps and wefts in contrast color threads. Woven in any natural fabric with blends like polyester, twill Stripes range from tiny pinstripes to 6-inch stripes while checks can be of any sizes.

Knowing about the different kinds of fabrics is very important for fashion aspirants. This helps in understanding which fabric is best suited for what kinds of designs. Whistling Woods-Neeta Lulla School of Fashion ensures that aspirants are aware about such finer details of designing.  

History of Indian Costumes & Textiles

India is a culturally rich land, where heritage is ingrained in every speck. The evolution of the various costumes and the ability to adapt western style has resulted in innovative contemporary designs. However, the simplicity of the bygone days should be remembered and revived.

Historically, clothes were only seen as a means of protection. Animal skin or other natural sources were used as clothing, but lead to newer means and also the climatic conditions played a critical role in the use of materials. In fact, the use of fabrics is traced as far back as the Indus Valley Civilization. Cotton was one of the first fabrics to be known to us; since the material is apt for the subcontinent’s climate, cotton was quite widespread. Spun, woven and dyed since prehistoric times, Cotton has been discovered in ancient Egypt and China. Long before the western textiles entered the scene Cotton was worn by Indians with matchless skill and the neighboring Mediterranean countries. Linen was said to be made during this time.

This knowledge that we possess today is based on the sculptures and paintings in caves left by the people of that time. Based on these tokens from history we can estimate their way of living, like there are images showing people wearing something that appears to be a dhoti. And from the fragments left it appears that the upper class population wore muslin with gold ornaments. 

  

Buddha wearing the Greek himation

Trade between the neighboring courtiers ensured the exchange of not only culture, but also goods that brought in different styles and fabrics. The 1^st century saw trade between Greeks and various other races. An example of this was seen in an image of Buddha wearing the Greek himation. 

Gupta's 

During Vedic times people were draped in three-piece unstitched clothing which continued in the Maurya and Gupta period. As trade exchanges increased, the exposure to different culture increased. Indigo was brought in by the Romans for dyeing and China introduced silk textiles through the Silk Road.

Maurya's

Weaving techniques were diverse out of which most have survived till date. Some of the weaves are Kasika Vastra and Jamdani from Varanasi. Designs and motifs varied and every region emerged with distinct techniques and styles.

The way people dressed at any given time in history is a glimpse into that era. The colors, textiles, motifs shape the costumes of a time in history serve as a reference point for all. For a fashion aspirant to be familiar with the fashions of different times in history is imperative and more so of their own country. We at Whistling Woods Neeta School of Fashion encourage this and hence our syllabus covers everything from current innovations to inspiring traditions.