A Page from Fashion History

The flashing lights on the stage, the smooth surface of the runway and the stunning models in beautiful clothes is what fashion shows are made of. People have always desired to look their best, making fashion one of the oldest existing businesses. Today there are countless fashion shows in London, Milan, Paris, America, India and almost every country in the globe so much so that it has become a common occurrence. But, the commencement of fashion shows has a vague history. France, one of the prime places where fashion flourished could be said to be the first ones to start the tradition of fashion shows. It is hard to narrow down the time or place for the first ever fashion show but let’s explore history.

Our story begins somewhere in the 1800s, during which time a horde of fashion parades took place in Fashion saloons; the glitz or glamour was mellow during that time, compared to what we are used to today. The models, who were called ‘Mannequins’, at that time, were taught the art of walking and posing in a saloon for onlookers. This was a way of displaying their collection and the latest trends. In all technicality it was a fashion show, though the models that time had fuller figures, but that too changed later on. In fact, depleting of the figure has been so much that we have size zero now!

In 1903 there was a resemblance of fashion show in New York City in Ehrlich Brothers boutique. The events had more of a theatrical flair to them compared to today. The show was generally organized around a theme which was narrated by someone. A couple of years later many of the large department stores such as Wanamaker’s and Philadelphia were also organizing these shows. 

The events exhibited couture gowns from Paris or gowns inspired by Paris fashion. Soon these events were taking place across New York City. But towards the end of the century, somewhere around the 1970s and 80s designers started having private shows which became the start of what would eventually become fashion show.

Nowadays we have fashion shows running on for weeks all over the world. For this we have some bright minds in the past to thank who in difficult times, when war was looming bring with it million of problems along, did not let the art die and found a way to reach the world. So remember when you see a fashion show next this all started in some saloon tucked somewhere in France.

Oldest Fashion House

The elegantly polished streets of Paris are a residence to the best fashion houses in the world. In fact, this fashion hub is birth to most of these “haute” houses. The oldest and perhaps the first fashion house is Lanvin. The venerable house of Lanvin was found in 1889 by Jeanne Lanvin.

Jeanne Lanvin

Jeanne Lanvin, the central character of this house of fashion story, was born in Paris in 1867 and was the eldest amongst eleven siblings. Coming from a modest family, Jeanne started at the age of sixteen by becoming an apprentice milliner (a person who makes or sells women’s hats) at Madame Félix in Paris, later gaining training at dressmaker Talbot. 

Jeanne Lanvin's Office

By 1890 she established her own milliner shop at 22, Rue du Faubourg, Saint- Honoré in Paris.  Five years later she married Count Emilio di Pietro and two years later they had a daughter named Marguerite di Pietro.

Marguerite di Pietro

Jeanne doted her daughter, Marguerite became her muse and it was said that Jeanne would use rare fabrics and furs, ‘drawing from the treasure of her studios’ for her daughter’s clothing. This attracted attention from a number of wealthy mothers who asked the same to be made for their children leading to an addition of children section to Lanvin. Soon the mothers wanted the designs for themselves too, and a year later a girl’s and ladies’ department was added.

           

After that there was no stopping Lanvin. From 1923 the empire included a dye factory, shops devoted to home décor and menswear, furs and lingerie were added. 

 home décor

Yet the biggest breakthrough was Lanvin Parfums. 

Lanvin Parfums

Jeanne became the most influential designer of the 1920’s and 1930’s. She had a flair for working with expensive fabrics and her creations could be easily identified. She was famous for her skillful use of embellishment, the delicate trimmings and embroideries along with fine beadwork. 

Free-flowing ribbons, ruffles, flowers, lace or mirrors were some of her favorites. Her choice of ornamentation were appliqué, couching, quilting, parallel stitching embroidery and subtle use of sequins. 

After the death of Jeanne her daughter took over and after the 1990’s the house has exchanged many hands but the idea has remained the same, where the logo says it all.

Lanvin's Logo

 A logo of a mother and child, holding hands highlights the point poetically. Lanvin has always been a family affair and the current creative head Albert Elbaz also believes that the nature of fashion is family.

Albert Elbaz