Kachchhi artisans weaving magic

India was once a thriving place of art and culture, but modern India is heavily influenced by the West. Thankfully there are parts of the country which practice art that reflects our traditions. Nirona village in Kutch, Gujarat is a village just like any other, except for the fact it practices centuries old art. The colorful and vibrant village still practices Rogan art, Lacquer art, Copper art and much more.

The small dusty village attracts a number of tourists thanks to their weaving skills. Traditionally kachchhi weavers come from the Marwada and Maheswari communities. The two diversified into different directions, while the Maheshwaris moved towards the art of mashroo the Marwada became well known for Kachchhi. 

Over the years the small community specialized in crafting woven textiles, leather and woodwork.

Taking inspiration from the community culture, kachchhi woven fabric mirrored the shapes of musical instruments, the footsteps of an animal herd and other designs. Motifs names like vakhiyo, chaumukh, satkani, hathi and dholki are reminiscent of rural images. 

The process starts with shearing the wool from the sheep and is washed and dried readying it to turn it into yarns for weaving. 

The process of carding converts the rough wool into a thin, clean, homogeneous strip which is easily spun into a yarn of equal thickness. Creating this wrap takes days, which includes dyeing too and women play a major role in this.

upright loom

Kachchhi weaving was generally done on Panja loom by hand. Later shuttle looms were used, an advanced technology. There are two types of shuttle looms- the upright loom for coarser fabric and the pit loom for finer fabric that are used. 

pit loom

Designs were created directly on looms through sequential movements of pedals. Blending white and black in a certain proportion creates different shades of grey from which different motifs, stripes and checks are made. Knitting has attained a different level of fabric construction altogether with the motifs getting three dimensional.  

The weaving market have drastically changed, over the changing years weavers have had to become dependent on outside markets for raw materials. Diverting from the original raw materials they now use silks, rayons and acrylic yarn. 

The rarity of the weaving art has made it more alluring and even though there are glimpses of contemporary touches, like designer cushion covers or even chairs for that matter, there is nothing compared to the old school designs!

   

Revisiting Victorian Fashion

Queen Victoria came to the throne in 1837 and ruled till her death in 1901. The long period of her regime was a witness to refined times and prosperity. Reflecting the various moods of the Victorian, fashion too underwent several changes. Women’s fashion was flourishing in full swing and men were not far behind. A Victorian gentleman followed the rules and protocols of proper dressing.

The 1840’s saw men wearing tight-fitting, calf length frock coats and a waistcoat or vest. The vests could be single or double breasted along with a shawl or notched collars that finished in double points at the lowered waist. 

A cutaway morning coat was worn with light trousers during the daytime, and for evening a dark tail coat and trousers. The shirts were made of linen or cotton with low collars, occasionally turned down. Trousers had fly fronts and breeches were used for formal functions and when horseback riding.

       

Shirts with high stand-up or turnover collars and four-in-hand neckties tied in a bow, or tied in a knot where the ends stuck out like "wings" came into fashion in 1850's. 

Stand-Up Collar

In 1860’s, trend of wider neckties which were tied in a bow or looped into a loose knot and fastened with a stickpin started. Frock coats were shortened to knee-length and were worn for business, while the mid-thigh length sack coat slowly replaced the frock coat for less-formal occasions. 

         

The three-piece suits grew in popularity during the 1870's, along with patterned fabrics for shirts. Neckties were the four-in-hand and, later, the ascot ties. 

Ascot Tie

During tropical climates narrow ribbon tie become the alternative. Length for both frock and sack coats reduced.

In mid-decade for formal occasions, dinner jacket or tuxedo was worn. For outdoor activities such as shooting The Norfolk jacket and tweed or woolen breeches were used. Men's shoes had higher heels and a narrow toe. 

Norfolk jacket

The blazer was introduced at the start of 1890's, and was worn for casual activities.

     

For men hat became an accessory. Prince Albert started the trend of top hat (on the right). For formal occasion top hat or tall silk hat was worn. 

Queen Victoria & Prince Albert in Top hat

Later derbies or bowler (on the left), short-brimmed with round crowns gained the monopoly. 

Cravat

Cravat was another important accessory that ranged in width and style.

   

And a proper gentleman would always carry a decorative pocket watch which was displaced hanging from the vest. Walking sticks and gloves of various designs became an essential part of the male wardrobe.

                            

Facets of Victorian Fashion

The Victorian era was one of the most innovative times in world history. Ruled by Queen Victoria from 1837 till she died in 1901, it was a long period of peace, prosperity and refined sensibility. Queen Victoria is remembered for her prosperous reign, but she also had a reputation for having a strange fascination with death. She influenced the society of that time greatly and thus for the Victorians death rituals held great importance. The queen’s husband Prince Albert died suddenly in 1861 from typhoid leading her way into deep mourning for the rest of her life.

Queen Victoria in mourning clothes 

Having an influential effect on the society, it became customary for families to go through elaborate rituals to honor their dead. 

Queen Victoria's entire mourning clothes

The rituals included wearing mourning clothes, having a lavish funeral, curtailing social behavior for a set a period of time and erecting an ornate monument on the grave.  

Queen Victoria's family in mourning clothes 

Mourning clothes became a family’s outward display of their inner feelings. There were complicated rules depending on the relationship with the deceased and the amount of time required to mourn. There were journals or household manuals which had copious instructions about appropriate mourning etiquette.

A Woman in full mourning attire 

Widows were expected to wear full mourning attire for two years. The deepest mourning clothes were to be black, symbolic of spiritual darkness. 

A Woman mourning for her child

For ‘deepest mourning’ widows wore plain black dresses made of crepe, crinkled black silk or bombazine and when they went out, they hid their faces beneath a black veil.

A woman in the initial stage of mourning  

Then after a year and a day came the ‘second mourning’ where the crepe on their dresses was limited to decorative trimmings and they could wear the black veil back revealing their faces.   

Queen Victoria in ordinary mourning 

Another nine months later they reached ‘ordinary mourning’ where the crepe was replaced with shiny black silk trimmed with ribbons and jet. 

                                                                                                            

The last stage of ‘half mourning’ lasted for six months, and the widows could wear soft colors like lilac and grey. The fans carried by the women also carried the solemnity of the mourning and handkerchiefs were black bordered, the width of the borders varied depending on the time of mourning. 

Mourning Fan

The mourning dress soon became high fashion that the wealthy and royalty could afford. Commoners managed by dyeing their regular garments.

During the mourning period the jewelry that was allowed lacked any kind of showmanship. Deep black colors were preferred. The brooch and earrings were made with designs that held special meaning for the mourners, often a photo or a lock of hair belonging to the deceased were woven into the jewelry used. 

brooches with a lock of the deceased 

                                                                                                                       

    

Jazzing it up with Accessories!

 The fabrics, the cuts, the use of shades, tones and hues are painstakingly chosen to make that prefect outfit that sets the runway on fire. Yet there is that something little that is needed to enhance the blaze. Accessories are that little something. As a collection or an outfit makes a style statement, so do the accessories chosen. Accessories are anything that accentuates the look, and could be anything from jewelry, bags, shoes or even a simple belt that complements your outfit.

Jewelry

Katie-Gallagher’s Spring-2013 saw some stunning earrings or the branch inspired earcuffs that made a style statement. Manish Arora paid homage to India in his 2013 spring collection in Paris. Besides the Gota- inspired borders, vibrant hand embroidery and the opulent brocade, it was the accessories that caught the eye. Inspired by Indian royalty, the Amrapali handcrafted vibrant piece brought a modern vibe with a touch of tradition. Quirky animal motifs and colorful tikkas, hand chains and jhumkas made for an excellent collection. This year’s collection too saw some amazing ancient inspired jewelry by Gabbana and Versace among myriad others.

Shoes

Finding inspiration from the ancient coins of Syracuse, Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring/Summer collection was just dazzling. The shoes complimented the outfits perfectly by reflecting the coinage theme. The Spring 2014 collection had some amazing shoes from Alberta Ferretti, Gianfranco Ferre and Gucci are just to name a few.

Bags and Belts

This is one category where men and women are equally active and this season has given them good reasons to be. Full of lively colors and floral prints for both men and women, from Gucci to Gabbana, everyone had innovative designs that boggled the senses.

Belts are another accessory that has seen innovation; be it Zuhair Murad with his leaf shaped belt or Gabbana’s coin inspired belts, there were many designers that experimented with belts.

In India there are designers well known for their presence on the runway through their outstanding creativity. A.k.a. bespoke known for their crafty shoe and bag making skills, are also known for gracing the runway for various well known designers. 

 Another familiar name is of Mavi who is known for her futuristic jewelry designing, who also made an appearance this season.

A simple outfit can be made grand with the correct accessory, and it does not have to be something over-the-top as the smallest of accessory can add elegance, completing the look.

Eclectic Fashion Themes

Images of glamorous clothes, shimmering fabrics and beautiful models are created at the mention of fashion shows. Besides the dazzling clothes there is a lot that goes in making a successful fashion show. Presentation is the key; this statement pretty much sums up how a fashion show should be. Designers create a theme which is a reflection to their collection. The staging, the clothes, the choreography of the models everything is designed according to the theme. Every collection that has ever been staged has had a theme, but there are some designers who have forgone the conventionalism and brought to the stage something beyond imagination.

French designer Jean Charles de Castelbajac for his S/S 3001 collection was toy inspired. His Lego themed collection generated quite a lot of news along with generating smiles. With the models walking on white fluffy cartoon clouds, techno-color silhouettes, unique, fun, and nostalgic, there is no other way of describing this Lego collection. The out-of-box thing that the French designer did was to create a virtual fashion show, which showed his collection worn by animated Lego blocks.

Jean Charles de Castelbajac

As far as unique themes go, there is no one else like Alexander McQueen. Calling the innovative designer’s themes unique is saying too less. For his 2005 fashion show, his theme was based on chess board. The models resembled the pieces of the game and walked in a robotic manner. 

Alexander McQueen

But this is not the only fashion show with a unique theme. Autumn/Winter 2007 saw some more outrages Gothic-occult theme. The show kicked off with an invocation of an occult prayer which sounded similar to a black magic invocation to bring about possession. 

Alexander McQueen

The models ritualistically walked along the red lines of a giant, while the prayers were read with pictures of models within the inverted pyramid that is symbolically above the giant pentagram. But even this is not enough for McQueen; he has some of the most bizarre themes that you have to see to believe.

With a fantastical Carousel theme, Chanel & Lousi Vuitton created magic. Models dressed in soft colors sitting on the merry-go-round were a vision to behold.

Chanel & Lousi Vuitton

Henrik Vibskvo another one of these innovative designers, created a Hamster Wheel themed fashion show. Dressed in dark shades and stripes, this was no conventional show. 

Henrik Vibskvo

Conventions are something that these designers are not familiar with good reasons. Creativity of such caliber should be exhibited and appreciated!  

The Forgotten Art - Rogan

The influence of western culture is all too visible in our country, which has its benefits. But the drawback to this ever-increasing westernization is the slow death of some of the best art forms of our own land. Fortunately in places like Nirona, a dusty, dry village in Kutch, the art of Rogan is still alive. A rare and intricate art form, Rogan is an oil-based painting done on cloth.

Practiced for nearly three hundred years, the history of this art form is vague. Said to have originated in Persia, Rogan in Persian literally means oil based painting. The traditional Rogan flower motifs and designs speak of a Persian influence. Peshawar, Lahore, Punjab, Baroda and Kutch were some of the states where the art was practiced. But over the centuries it has faded away and at present Nirona is the only place left where the art still persists. Passed down seven generations, the sons of the Khatri family are the only one continuing the legacy. 

Abdul Gafoor (right) and his uncle Hasan display Rogan art works

Used as a substitute for embroidering, Rogan painting on cloth gives the impression of embroidery. The effect is generated due to the surface application of paste which has an embossed and shiny look akin to embroidery. Rogan is used to decorate mostly the garment of bridal trousseau like Ghagharas, Odhana, Chabla, and Dharajo. Bed sheets, pillow cases, quilts, wall-hanging are also made along with saris. 

Abdul Gafur Khatri

Rogan has an elaborated method, of which making colors is extremely critical. Castor oil is heated for over twelve hours and casted into cold water, this produces a thick residue called ‘Rogan’ which is then mixed with colors. 

During ancient times only indigenous colors from flowers, soil or rocks were used, now however ready-made pigmentation are available. 

Sitting crossed legs on the floor with only one’s hand to support the cloth is the way to create the magnificent design. The delicate design is created by using stylus or wooden stick on one half of the cloth, which is then folded carefully on a center line, pressing lightly and effectively stamping the design on the remaining half of the cloth. 

Rogan is on the verge of extiction, but not completely vanished mostly because of the attraction it holds for tourists. The ancient, beautiful and intricate art is a reflection of our culture and heritage that needs to be revived and preserved.