Hussein Chalayan is a name that many are not familiar with, which is unfortunate as he is an integral part of the fashion world. A visionary in the contemporary fashion world, this British/Turkish designer has innovated the way fashion is viewed. The unique way in which he uses materials, meticulous pattern cutting and a refreshing attitude to technology advancement has earned him quite a reputation in the fashion circle. He has transformed a coffee table into a wooden skirt and envelopes opened up to make paper dresses. Aspirants keen on seeking fashion designing can draw inspiration from Hussein.
Hüseyin Cağlayan (now Hussein Chalayan) was born in Nicosia, Turkey on 12th August, 1970. Due to ethnic conflicts between the Turkish and Greek communities the family moved to England in 1978. Here, young Hussein studied for a National Diploma in fashion and clothing at Warwickshire School of Arts. He studied Fashion Design at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London. His breakthrough was his graduation collection titled ‘The Tangent Flows’. The collection consisting of a host of silk outfits, but after the outfits were made he buried them in his backyard. The outfits were revived just before the show. Through the burial and resurrection he signified the ritual of life and death. The collection impressed Browns, a boutique in London, who borrowed the collection to feature in their window display.
Over the years, Hussein has pioneered inspiring ideas and his creations are seamless blends between anthropology, history, science, philosophy, genetics and technology. With a flair for the dramatic, Hussein’s fashion shows have some assembly of suspense that incorporated contemporary interiors, urban architecture and geometric structures.
All these attributes are clearly visible in his collections. ‘Lands Without’ featured ‘Kite’ dresses in which he directed the relationship between his garments and the body and his love for architecture was used to show the interplay. ‘Inertia’, a collection from 2009, explored the connection our lives have with speed and technology.
The ‘Before Minus Now’ collection was a coloration between architecture and technology that featured wire-frame architectural prints and the technology used allows prints to be formed on a white background. The images were then displayed on the silk and cotton outfits. The collection also displayed the ‘Remote Control’ dress, which became the first wireless and functionally fashion garment.
His collection ‘Afterwords’ stressed on the sentiment of forced displacement in which furniture were transformed into garments. LED technology was used in ‘Airborne’, a collection that used an extravagant show of light to make its point.
These are just few of collections that give you an idea of the magnitude of talent possessed by Hussein Chalayanb. He had designed a jacket for avant-garde star Björk which featured on her cover 1995 album Post.
His talent has been appreciated and he was awarded the British Designer of the Year twice (1999 and 2000) and in 2006 was awarded the MBE. He also established his own company, Cartesia Ltd., in 1994 along with Chalayan, a ready-to-wear clothing line. This is a man for whom a show is not necessarily about a "collection", for whom laser spectaculars and wind machine-generated sensationalism are more the centerpiece than dresses and seasonal trends. As much a showman as a designer, Chalayan is one fashion designer we should all follow for the trends he set and his stylistic leanings.
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