Revisiting Victorian Fashion

Queen Victoria came to the throne in 1837 and ruled till her death in 1901. The long period of her regime was a witness to refined times and prosperity. Reflecting the various moods of the Victorian, fashion too underwent several changes. Women’s fashion was flourishing in full swing and men were not far behind. A Victorian gentleman followed the rules and protocols of proper dressing.

The 1840’s saw men wearing tight-fitting, calf length frock coats and a waistcoat or vest. The vests could be single or double breasted along with a shawl or notched collars that finished in double points at the lowered waist. 

A cutaway morning coat was worn with light trousers during the daytime, and for evening a dark tail coat and trousers. The shirts were made of linen or cotton with low collars, occasionally turned down. Trousers had fly fronts and breeches were used for formal functions and when horseback riding.

       

Shirts with high stand-up or turnover collars and four-in-hand neckties tied in a bow, or tied in a knot where the ends stuck out like "wings" came into fashion in 1850's. 

Stand-Up Collar

In 1860’s, trend of wider neckties which were tied in a bow or looped into a loose knot and fastened with a stickpin started. Frock coats were shortened to knee-length and were worn for business, while the mid-thigh length sack coat slowly replaced the frock coat for less-formal occasions. 

         

The three-piece suits grew in popularity during the 1870's, along with patterned fabrics for shirts. Neckties were the four-in-hand and, later, the ascot ties. 

Ascot Tie

During tropical climates narrow ribbon tie become the alternative. Length for both frock and sack coats reduced.

In mid-decade for formal occasions, dinner jacket or tuxedo was worn. For outdoor activities such as shooting The Norfolk jacket and tweed or woolen breeches were used. Men's shoes had higher heels and a narrow toe. 

Norfolk jacket

The blazer was introduced at the start of 1890's, and was worn for casual activities.

     

For men hat became an accessory. Prince Albert started the trend of top hat (on the right). For formal occasion top hat or tall silk hat was worn. 

Queen Victoria & Prince Albert in Top hat

Later derbies or bowler (on the left), short-brimmed with round crowns gained the monopoly. 

Cravat

Cravat was another important accessory that ranged in width and style.

   

And a proper gentleman would always carry a decorative pocket watch which was displaced hanging from the vest. Walking sticks and gloves of various designs became an essential part of the male wardrobe.

                            

Facets of Victorian Fashion

The Victorian era was one of the most innovative times in world history. Ruled by Queen Victoria from 1837 till she died in 1901, it was a long period of peace, prosperity and refined sensibility. Queen Victoria is remembered for her prosperous reign, but she also had a reputation for having a strange fascination with death. She influenced the society of that time greatly and thus for the Victorians death rituals held great importance. The queen’s husband Prince Albert died suddenly in 1861 from typhoid leading her way into deep mourning for the rest of her life.

Queen Victoria in mourning clothes 

Having an influential effect on the society, it became customary for families to go through elaborate rituals to honor their dead. 

Queen Victoria's entire mourning clothes

The rituals included wearing mourning clothes, having a lavish funeral, curtailing social behavior for a set a period of time and erecting an ornate monument on the grave.  

Queen Victoria's family in mourning clothes 

Mourning clothes became a family’s outward display of their inner feelings. There were complicated rules depending on the relationship with the deceased and the amount of time required to mourn. There were journals or household manuals which had copious instructions about appropriate mourning etiquette.

A Woman in full mourning attire 

Widows were expected to wear full mourning attire for two years. The deepest mourning clothes were to be black, symbolic of spiritual darkness. 

A Woman mourning for her child

For ‘deepest mourning’ widows wore plain black dresses made of crepe, crinkled black silk or bombazine and when they went out, they hid their faces beneath a black veil.

A woman in the initial stage of mourning  

Then after a year and a day came the ‘second mourning’ where the crepe on their dresses was limited to decorative trimmings and they could wear the black veil back revealing their faces.   

Queen Victoria in ordinary mourning 

Another nine months later they reached ‘ordinary mourning’ where the crepe was replaced with shiny black silk trimmed with ribbons and jet. 

                                                                                                            

The last stage of ‘half mourning’ lasted for six months, and the widows could wear soft colors like lilac and grey. The fans carried by the women also carried the solemnity of the mourning and handkerchiefs were black bordered, the width of the borders varied depending on the time of mourning. 

Mourning Fan

The mourning dress soon became high fashion that the wealthy and royalty could afford. Commoners managed by dyeing their regular garments.

During the mourning period the jewelry that was allowed lacked any kind of showmanship. Deep black colors were preferred. The brooch and earrings were made with designs that held special meaning for the mourners, often a photo or a lock of hair belonging to the deceased were woven into the jewelry used. 

brooches with a lock of the deceased