Revisiting Victorian Fashion

Queen Victoria came to the throne in 1837 and ruled till her death in 1901. The long period of her regime was a witness to refined times and prosperity. Reflecting the various moods of the Victorian, fashion too underwent several changes. Women’s fashion was flourishing in full swing and men were not far behind. A Victorian gentleman followed the rules and protocols of proper dressing.

The 1840’s saw men wearing tight-fitting, calf length frock coats and a waistcoat or vest. The vests could be single or double breasted along with a shawl or notched collars that finished in double points at the lowered waist. 

A cutaway morning coat was worn with light trousers during the daytime, and for evening a dark tail coat and trousers. The shirts were made of linen or cotton with low collars, occasionally turned down. Trousers had fly fronts and breeches were used for formal functions and when horseback riding.

       

Shirts with high stand-up or turnover collars and four-in-hand neckties tied in a bow, or tied in a knot where the ends stuck out like "wings" came into fashion in 1850's. 

Stand-Up Collar

In 1860’s, trend of wider neckties which were tied in a bow or looped into a loose knot and fastened with a stickpin started. Frock coats were shortened to knee-length and were worn for business, while the mid-thigh length sack coat slowly replaced the frock coat for less-formal occasions. 

         

The three-piece suits grew in popularity during the 1870's, along with patterned fabrics for shirts. Neckties were the four-in-hand and, later, the ascot ties. 

Ascot Tie

During tropical climates narrow ribbon tie become the alternative. Length for both frock and sack coats reduced.

In mid-decade for formal occasions, dinner jacket or tuxedo was worn. For outdoor activities such as shooting The Norfolk jacket and tweed or woolen breeches were used. Men's shoes had higher heels and a narrow toe. 

Norfolk jacket

The blazer was introduced at the start of 1890's, and was worn for casual activities.

     

For men hat became an accessory. Prince Albert started the trend of top hat (on the right). For formal occasion top hat or tall silk hat was worn. 

Queen Victoria & Prince Albert in Top hat

Later derbies or bowler (on the left), short-brimmed with round crowns gained the monopoly. 

Cravat

Cravat was another important accessory that ranged in width and style.

   

And a proper gentleman would always carry a decorative pocket watch which was displaced hanging from the vest. Walking sticks and gloves of various designs became an essential part of the male wardrobe.