The ABCs of Indian textiles- Jacquard Fabrics

Fabrics are broadly divided into Handloom (hand woven) and Jacquard (woven in power looms). While hand-loom fabrics are simply woven with clear warps and wefts, Jacquard are characterized by complex woven –in designs, with repetitive patterns all throughout and tapestry effects.

Jacquard Fabrics

Fabrics that are made in Jacquard are broadly –

Brocade- Woven with solid or multicolored silk threads, brocades are richly decorative fabrics and suitable for heavy apparel and outerwear; hence an all time favorite of designers. The addition of a supplementary weft gives the illusion of ‘embossing’ on the cloth.

Damask- Damask fabric is a reversible kind, with mostly geometric, floral, foliage, scrolls and ornamental motifs. It has a subtle sheen that is evident when light reflects on the surface and hence best suited for decor, heavy festive garments and costumes.

Brocatelle- Brocatelle is a high yarn count fabric closely similar to brocade but made in high relief. The puffed appearance of patterns make them best suitable for upholsteries, draperies and general décor.                                        

Dobby- Dobby is a patterned fabric and characterized by unique geometric patterns and extra texture on the cloth. It is often considered a tad fancy and comes is all patterns, colors, weights and textures.

Checks & Stripes- Woven in any natural fabric with blends like polyester, twill etc, checks and stripes are created with alternating warps and wefts in contrast color threads. Stripes range from tiny pinstripes to 6 inch stripes while checks can be of any sizes. These fabrics have the widest usage in garments and light upholstery.

“In modern textile designing, Jacquard fabrics are more widely used and preferred by designers. The higher yarn counts of these fabrics open it up for embellishments, ornamentation and hence more scope for design. For draping, use Jacquard if you want a sturdy fabric and handloom textiles if you want a flowing, delicate drape”, suggests Jaishikha Ratanpal, faculty of draping and costume at the Whistling Woods Neeta Lulla School of Fashion.