Fashion Fusion: Where East Meets West

The Indian fashion industry has grown several fold and is all set to ascend still further, and Whistling Woods Neeta Lulla School of Fashion organized a never before event where renowned fashion experts came together to discuss just how this change would come about. ‘The Future of Fashion Forum’ was held on 25^th January, 2014 and touched upon several themes relevant to the Indian fashion industry.

Amongst the topics that were discussed, the emergence of luxury brands, growth of fashion retail and significance of e-commerce were hot topics. The event ended on a very stylish note with an exchange on the Influence of Western Silhouettes in the Indian Hemisphere and who better than the styling elite to talk about it! Tanya Ghavri (Celebrity Stylist), Pearl Shah (Fashion Stylist) and Ekta Rajani (Fashion Director of Grazia) graced the stage.  

Right until the turn of the millennium in 2000 there was a sense of east emulating the west. The presence of fashion weeks in our country brought about a change in this thinking and Ekta Rajani believes that the future of contemporary Indian fashion is bright. We are appreciating and loving what we do here and adapting to the global lifestyle instead of looking westward. Tanya Ghavri agrees and adds that there is awareness; people want to know about global fashion for which social media, Bollywood and fashion magazines are popular channels of discovery and exploration. What is beautiful to Ekta is to see a lot of Indian designers using Indian fabric in the western context, thus creating space for these contemporary designers. The fusion of east and west by some leading designers is truly stunning.

Ekta continued by defining the role of a stylist, whose main role lies in expanding upon one’s sense of individuality. People are making an effort to dress and look their best, and this is where a stylist comes into play. A designer will work with a person’s look, whereas a stylist plays with separate elements and helps a person define their own personal sense of style. A stylist puts things into context, contextualizing from the hair to the makeup to the shoes to the right kind of accessories, making sure nothing is overdone.

To Pearl Shah, fashion is closely linked to trade. A stylist has to be versatile, like a Chameleon, changing styles from one to another and yet another depending on what they seek. The advice to young aspirants was to take a year off and do an internship, explore your options and see what works best for you. Style and Fashion are such ubiquitous elements of the society that it is always in a state of evolution and one cannot wait to see what tomorrow’s fashionistas have in store for us!

  

Meet the Father of Haute Couture

Sometimes, you must look at the past to understand the present! Fashion has been revolutionized throughout the centuries and fashion has reached unimaginable heights. And for this the credit goes to… yes people you got it right, it goes to designers that dared to change things. Charles Frederick Worth is one such designer well worthy of our respect; after all he is The Originator of Haute Couture!

Born in 1825 in England, Charles Frederick Worth started his career at the young age of 13 as an apprentice to Swan and Edgar, selling dress materials and shawls. Later he moved to London and worked for Lewis and Allenby, and then reached Paris, where his story began in earnest!

Charles Frederick Worth               Marie Vernet 

Maison Gagelin of Paris, a fabric and accessories shop, was Worth’s next stop. There he met Marie Vernet who modeled shawls and she was to become Worth’s future wife and muse. Worth would make dresses for her that would go with the shawls and bonnets, and with time his garments were noticed and customers asked for clothes to be made for them too. 

Empress Eugénie

In 1858 Worth opened his dressmaking establishment along with Otto Bobergh, thus the name Worth and Bobergh. Luck seemed to have favored Worth because during this time Napoleon lll and his fashionable wife Empress Eugénie  were residing in Paris. Eugenie saw one of Worth’s creation on her close friend Pauline Von Metternich, and we all know how women are! Soon Eugenie became one of Worth’s favorite and most regular clients. Worth mostly catered to the crème de la crème; nobility was a regular with this designer. Worth and Bobergh was closed in 1870, but thankfully Worth was back the following year with The House of Worth.

A pioneer of several innovations in the art of dressmaking, he developed a system of interchangeable pattern pieces where a sleeve from one gown would fit the bodice of another one, all of which were designed in lavish fabrics. He also created the walking skirt by cutting off just enough material to cover the ankles without it being dragged in the mud. Jaunty hats were another of Worth’s notable creations. And probably the biggest trend that Worth started was to use live models to showcase the entire outfit and to also show a collection in advance, which has became the traditional norm today.

After leading a life full of fashion, Worth passed away in 1895 and the business was taken over by his sons. Worth created something way ahead of its time and he showed the world what fine sewing exactly is. Truly, he is The Father of Haute Couture!

The Future of e-Commerce

The colossal boom in the field of information technology has opened up many doors. This phenomenon of ‘E-commerce’ is sweeping across the entire business world, from big-time corporate to small home-run business, and revolutionizing the way we buy and sell. Whistling Woods Neeta Lulla School of Fashion gave an opportunity to young aspirants to get a glimpse into the future of E-commerce through ‘The Future of Fashion Forum’, held on 25 January 2014.

Experts like Rahul Naverkar, who is the CEO at NDTV Ethnic Retail Limited and Co-founder & Director, Brand Sourcing at Fashion and You, along with Krsna Mehta, Founder & Design Director, India Circus Retail Pvt Ltd and Dhimaan Shah, Co-Founder & Managing Director of stylecracker.com spoke about the Significance of E-Commerce in Promoting Indian Fashion.

Rahul Naverkar      Dhimaan Shah         Krsna Mehta   

Rahul Naverkar is of the opinion that E-commerce is a huge enabler for young talent. The online experience really is the best way of reaching out to customers once you get the order, and that is the only major differentiator to regular retail channels. Of course, the front end also differs. Rahul discussed the mentality of the Indian buyer, who is not averse to paying big bucks for brands or products he or she likes instantly. An unknown brand starting purely online lacks credibility, and it needs a physical presence to attain volumes. Once credible enough, online selling is a perfect medium. From a marketing perspective, he opined that lots of brands went online, but very few understood the cost of buying Google ad words, bidding and other expenses related to bringing in relevant traffic. This is the biggest challenge alongside finding the right talent for E-commerce.

Dhimaan Shah jumped in by saying that if technology is leveraged correctly, people are open to it. Just setting up a website won’t ensure views; it takes time along with the presence of offline stores. Dhimaan was cogent in saying Facebook likes and Twitter followers feed only an ego, the real metric of value are signups and sales.

And last, but not the least, Krsna Mehta focuses on Fast Fashion as today’s buzzword. Marketing online is maddening, where social media channels such as Facebook and Twitter play an important role. He gave a winning formula of planning your spend and making it go hand-in-hand with social media. He believes that sites which educate their customers will lead the way in the future. E-commerce is a fantastic enabler for businesses, and utilizing it properly could supercharge your sales in a manner you never imagined possible!

The Rise and Rise of Luxury Brands

The who’s who of fashion industry gazed into the crystal ball and made their predictions at The Future of Fashion Forum. This one of a kind platform was created by Whistling Woods Neeta Lulla School of Fashion and held on 25^th January 2014. The fashion forum saw a diverse array of events covering myriad themes related to the fashion industry being addressed.

Some of the themes that were debated on were the Growth of the Fashion Retail Business, Trends and Insights and so on. The forum was commenced with an insight on the Emergence of Luxury Brands in India. Lulu Raghvan, Managing Director of Landor Associates and Shrenik Khasgiwala, Director of Brand Capital, shared their expert views on the topic.

The new generation of young consumers is the main driver of demand for luxury products and experiences that are all the rage right now. As renowned international brands start to become increasingly available, attitudes of the Indian Consumers too are changing. IMRB, a research agency, has noted four attitudes of the Indian Consumer towards the luxury brands, namely Experimentalist, Connoisseurs, Aesthetics and Flaunters.

Lulu Raghvan spoke about the growth of the global luxury market space in India that is growing at a rate of 20% annually. The opportunities for global luxury brands to thrive in India are increasing year on year. Thus, it is very important for brands to know their segment and consumers intimately and increase their connection with them. She describes the four stages at which the brands can connect to the consumers:

• Awareness
•  Exploration and Consideration
• Purchase
• Post Purchase

Shrenik M Khasgiwala, another prominent figure in this field, shared his views. According to him, self- expression should reflect in the design of the products and it is important for the brand to have a sense of empathy for its client. For any brand, it is important to win the home market. India being such a huge market, it offers a huge challenge even for the savvy marketer. He predicts that in 10 -15 years from now, global trends will originate from India.

The session ended with young participants acquiring immense knowledge on the Emergence of Luxury Brands in India and also with the knowledge that there is a lot of shopping to do in the near and distant future!   

Man-tastic Fashion Trends for this Spring Summer

When it comes to fashion, women usually outshine men thanks to the dazzling array of clothes they can choose from. But worry not! Many designers know what a man wants and are coming up with amazing Spring Summer Collections that are showcased on both national and international stages. The hues are mostly dark, particularly blue, and with fabrics that are not restricted by the season. Let’s take a peek at some of the trends that fashionable men can anticipate this season.

Peaceful White

The cool and classic white is going to be the color this summer. All-white ensembles have a timeless appeal and the uniformity of the color gives designers a chance to play with textures. Mixing and matching colors will create an altogether new look. Even adding a touch of color will work wonders for the outfit.

Go Desi

No matter how much westernized our fashion is it is our traditional attire that always grab eyeballs. Men graced the catwalk in traditional ethnic wear, and they made for a stunning sight! The simple designs and sober colors were eye-catching and is one of the trends that will rule the coming season.

Suit up!

Suits were never out of fashion, and never will be! This season the runways were flooded with an array of suits in every shade, all of which were designed with elegant cuts and a savoir faire that will leave the ladies cooing with joy!

Color Play

The runways were painted in myriad colors, including deep, dark shades. Blues and blacks stood out and made a style statement while more subtle pastel shades also made an appearance.

Print it

The plain, monotonous attire were recreated with prints on the catwalk with such finesse that it has surely secured a place in the coming season. The blooming flower prints and prints inspired by the animal kingdom have gained a nod of approval from critics!

Summoning the past

History has always been one of the major sources of inspiration for any and all kinds of art, so how can fashion be far behind! The influence of the bygone eras is beautifully showcased. Nothing like having a bit of old-world charm in your wardrobe!

The Spring-Summer collection has given the fashion enthusiast a season full of style, charm and fashion to look forward to, so be ready to dress to kill!

A little something called a Blouse!

India is the subject of much fascination around the world thanks to the varied tapestry of its culture. Vibrant hues, innumerable deities and of course our diverse attire has helped bring India under the cultural spotlight. Of these, the Saree has gained the most renown thanks to its timeless elegance and sumptuous sensuality.

The saree’s origin can be traced back to the Indus valley civilization. The unstitched piece of garment was worn differently during those days and has undergone an evolution. Although the evolution of saree is well documented, there is very little reference to the evolution of the humble blouse, which by the way has an intriguing history of its own!

The history of the blouse starts with them not existing at all! Centuries ago, only women belonging to the upper crust of the society wore two pieces of garment, a type of bodice or a band of cloth wrapped around their chest and the other draped around the waist. The lower class women or courtesan would have bare upper bodies.

Multiple foreign invasions changed societal norms forever. Under different regimes, right from Muslim rule to British imperialism, the blouse evolved. Before the British ruled, the value of a saree’s material was inferred from how fine and diaphanous it was. The sheerness of the material was ‘immoral’ according to the British, so their bewilderment at the absence of a blouse can be imagined! The blouse, which had not been standardized throughout India, became a fixed upper garment for Indian women. 

         Edwardian Style                   Frills                                   Puffed Sleeves                   Flower Print                   Checked Blouse  

Since then fashion has changed the blouse in every possible way.From the early 30’s till date, saree blouses have constantly evolved. Frills and ruffles ruled the scene in the mid 30’s, square neck blouses dominated the scene in the 40’s and the 50’s brought checked, striped and flower printed blouses in nylon to the forefront. Puffed sleeves and sleeveless blouses have held sway too. Edwardian styled blouses inspired by the British were once upon a time a running trend. 

Contemporary designers have added and subtracted different elements that have further enhanced their beauty. Blouse-back designs have seen huge changes too and even after adorning the fashion scene for centuries, the allure and the grace of this diminutive piece of garment has not diminished even slightly!

Student Spotlight: Simply to “dye” for!

Tie-Dye and Batik is an art much admired around the world, and the inimitable, easygoing styles of these two techniques make it perfect for both upscale and down-to-earth gatherings. It’s ageless appeal and demand means mastering these techniques is a must for any aspiring fashion designer. A visit to the Weaving Service Center was thus arranged for students of Whistling Woods Neeta Lulla School of Fashion, where they would have a one-on-one experience with professional artists demonstrating the techniques and creativity involved in creating Tie-Dye and Batik prints.

The origins of Tie-Dye cannot be pinned to one place since it appears in one form or the other in the Middle East, Africa, Indonesia, Malaysia, China, Thailand, Philippines and India. In India, we know it better as Bandhani, one of the oldest techniques of Tie-Dye. The word Bandhani is derived from the Sanskrit word ‘Banda’ which means ‘to tie’, and its practitioners are known as ‘bandhanii’. These bandhanii’s grew the nails of their thumbs and forefingers very long as it helps them to produce the trademark dots on the fabric that everyone loves.

The emergence of the hippie movement in the 60’s gave a whole new meaning to Batik, which traces its origins to Indonesia, and the vibrant colors of this ancient art went hand in hand with the psychedelic designs of the time. The age-old art found an artistic outlet through a free-spirited generation that embraced it whole-heartedly. Today, Tie-Dye and Batik techniques are used in making anything and everything. Form apparel to home décor, everything is getting painted in vibrant hues and patterns that capture the imagination.

Batik and tie and dye have transcended their traditional origins and have carved a niche in urban markets as supermodels strut their stuff in sarongs or caftans made using these techniques. These spontaneous techniques are now used by designers the world over to create styles that are beautiful and unique in their style quotient. 

Suffice to say our students had a blast exploring these art forms that allow budding designers to unleash their creativity to the fullest! 

An Inspirational Talk with Xerxes Bhathena

Whistling Woods Neeta Lulla School of Fashion revealed a glimpse into the future of fashion in ‘The Future of Fashion Forum’ that was held on 25^th January, 2014. This unique platform saw professionals and experts from the fashion industry sharing their vision about all things fashionable. Some of the themes of the forum included the emergence of Luxury Brands, the Growth of the Fashion Retail Business, Industry Insights and much more.

Krishna Mehta, Nachiket Barve, Pearl Shah and Ekta Rajani were some of the fashion experts who took to the stage and regaled the audience along with brand consultants and strategists like Lulu Raghavan and Rahul Narvekar. Suffice to say that all the assembled speakers inspired the audience immensely, but one inspirational speaker that graced the stage was Xerxes Bhathena.

Xerxes Bhathena embarked on his journey as a famed fashion designer at Burlington’s Fashion House, an upscale women`s and men`s clothing store, in Bombay in 1970. His rise from then onwards was meteoric and he quickly graduated to working in the Indian film industry. He got his big break when he staged a fashion show showcasing 17 of his creations at Shabana Azmi’s house. While Shabana Azmi didn’t feel his style fit for her own character, but she opined that Praveen Babi would be perfect for him. He earned accolades for his work in ‘Namak Halal’ as Praveen Babi’s designer, and the rest as they say is history.

Bhathena’s creations have graced movies like Sagar, Mr. India, Sultanat and he has created stunning outfits for over 50 films for actresses like Zeenat Aman, Smita Pati, Dimple Kapadia, Sridevi and endless more. Aspiring fashion aspirants present at the event took full advantage of this opportunity to talk to Xerxes Bhathena, and he had words of wisdom for those dreaming of being a fashion designer.

“I believe there are three things essential to be a great fashion designer. First, you have to have the burning sensation in you to become something; you have to have the passion to do it right. The second thing is to be a great student of the past, look at what has been done.  And the third thing is to have a good business sense.”

With these 3 simple lessons, Xerxes Bhathena passed on his knowledge with grace and style that is typical of the man!