The Forgotten Art - Rogan

The influence of western culture is all too visible in our country, which has its benefits. But the drawback to this ever-increasing westernization is the slow death of some of the best art forms of our own land. Fortunately in places like Nirona, a dusty, dry village in Kutch, the art of Rogan is still alive. A rare and intricate art form, Rogan is an oil-based painting done on cloth.

Practiced for nearly three hundred years, the history of this art form is vague. Said to have originated in Persia, Rogan in Persian literally means oil based painting. The traditional Rogan flower motifs and designs speak of a Persian influence. Peshawar, Lahore, Punjab, Baroda and Kutch were some of the states where the art was practiced. But over the centuries it has faded away and at present Nirona is the only place left where the art still persists. Passed down seven generations, the sons of the Khatri family are the only one continuing the legacy. 

Abdul Gafoor (right) and his uncle Hasan display Rogan art works

Used as a substitute for embroidering, Rogan painting on cloth gives the impression of embroidery. The effect is generated due to the surface application of paste which has an embossed and shiny look akin to embroidery. Rogan is used to decorate mostly the garment of bridal trousseau like Ghagharas, Odhana, Chabla, and Dharajo. Bed sheets, pillow cases, quilts, wall-hanging are also made along with saris. 

Abdul Gafur Khatri

Rogan has an elaborated method, of which making colors is extremely critical. Castor oil is heated for over twelve hours and casted into cold water, this produces a thick residue called ‘Rogan’ which is then mixed with colors. 

During ancient times only indigenous colors from flowers, soil or rocks were used, now however ready-made pigmentation are available. 

Sitting crossed legs on the floor with only one’s hand to support the cloth is the way to create the magnificent design. The delicate design is created by using stylus or wooden stick on one half of the cloth, which is then folded carefully on a center line, pressing lightly and effectively stamping the design on the remaining half of the cloth. 

Rogan is on the verge of extiction, but not completely vanished mostly because of the attraction it holds for tourists. The ancient, beautiful and intricate art is a reflection of our culture and heritage that needs to be revived and preserved.