The twentieth started
with a buzz of activities. The First World War ended ushering the roaring
twenties. The year 1920 was a witness tremendous change, women gained the right
to vote; clubs opened-up, jazz music was played, Hollywood and Vogue gained
prominence and the need for liberalization took root. Fashion too liberalized;
the flappers came into picture and fashion entered the modern era. This
modernization of fashion was the working the few iconic fashion designers of the
20s. Here are the people who created fashion in the 1920s.
“Fashion is not
something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street;
fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening.”- Coco Chanel
Gabrielle Bonheur
Chanel, popularly known as Coco Chanel was born in 1883. Chanel liberated women
form the restrictions of the corsets and popularized a more masculine look. Borrowing
the details from menswear Channel created two or three piece suits. She made the
suits elegant with matching blouses, stylishly lined jackets and pleated
skirts. Channel pioneered the iconic ‘little black dress’ something that is
still found in women’s wardrobes. Cardigan jacket was another one of Chanel’s
signature creations. Chanel introduced a perfume, Chanel No. 5 which is still
popular. Coco Chanel had a classic and powerful style with a lasting legacy that
has influenced decades of fashion.
Jean Patou
“Certain dressmakers
desire to pass for an artist. I have one ambition: that is to have good
taste.”- Jean Patou
Jean Patou, a lesser
known brand today than Chanel, but in the 1920s they both ruled. He is credited
with creating the ‘designer tie’ for men and pioneered the boyish gaeconne look
for women. He was praised for his ultramodern and sporty style. When Suzanne
Lenglen, the French tennis star wore Patou’s long white sleeveless cardigan and
a fly-away white pleated skirt for her game it became sensational news. He left
his mark when he created the most expensive fragrance ‘Joy’ that is still loved
by people. He also created the first suntan lotion. Jean Patou had an
extravagant way of living yet his designs were simple, youthfully classic and
most importantly wearable.
Elsa Schiaparelli
“In difficult times
fashion is always outrageous.”- Elsa Schiaparelli
In the 1920s
Italian-born Elsa Schiaparelli was considered Chanel’s biggest rival. She is
remembered for her coveted black knit sweaters with a white bow tie design. She
was strongly inspired by Surrealist like Salvador Dali. She was wild and
whimsical, something that is clearly visible in her creations. She created
prints that were wild, unique outfits and distinctive hats one of which is her
lamb chop topper that was shaped like a large shoe. Unfortunately, she could
not adapt to the changing fashion of the post world war ll and her business
ceased in 1954.
Madeleine Vionnet
“When a woman smiles
the dress must smile with her.”Madeleine Vionnet
The Queen of the bias
cut and the Architect among dressmakers are the few names Madeleine Vionnet
achieved in her lifetime. Influenced by the architecture, geometry and dance of
that time Vionnet innovated, the bias-cut gowns that were sleek, form-fitting
and fluid in their making. She is best known for her elegant Grecian style dresses.
Jeanne Lanvin
“A design inevitably
reflects the artistic motifs stored in one’s memory, drawing on those which are
the most alive, new and fertile all at the same time”- Jeanne Lancvin
Lanvin had blurred
the lines between children’s and women’s wear and by the 1920s had come-up with
a more youthful and sporty look. She made simple styles into elaborated fashion
by using decorations and embroideries, a 1920 character. She made luxe fabric
and pleated skirts famous among royalty and Hollywood.
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