Techniques and Importance of Pattern Drafting

Pattern Drafting is an important part of fashion designing and requires immense skills and practice. Pattern drafting is where pattern pieces are drawn on paper according to body measurement which becomes the foundation for designers to create garments. There are several techniques that professionals use, some of them are:

Tracing: This is one of the simplest technique that is used. In this technique a garment (similar to what a designer wishes to create) is placed flat on a paper and the pattern is traced. Some space is left to add seam of the garment. The tracing technique works best for garments with minimum shapes and is one of the best technique for beginners.

Creating a Sloper: This is a slightly complicated technique in pattern drafting. Slopers, also referred to as ‘block patterns’ or ‘fitting shells’, are extremely close-fitting garments with no ease movement. A sloper is the building block from which a designer can create any number of patterns. There are two ways to acquire a sloper: one is to find numerous free sloper patterns online or can be created from scratch. Creating a sloper from the scratch requires a good knowledge for math and geometry.

Software: Nowadays, professionals mostly use softwares to create pattern drafting. Some of the best softwares that professionals use are DesignSew, Pattern Master, Gerber Accumark, and more that are introduced in the industry every day.

These techniques for pattern drafting have been followed by professionals for quite a while now. But pattern drafting as a profession is still in its nascent stages. Even though some of the techniques have been used for decades. However, things are changing for the aspiring designers. Today pattern drafters are gaining importance in the world of fashion designing. There are various avenues that are opening up as observed by Amol Chettiar, Faculty of Whistling Woods - Neeta Lulla School of Fashion. He says, “Pattern drafters are the architects of fashion designing and tailors are the one that make the designers dream come true. Designers, today have realized this which has led to various career opportunities like a consultant pattern drafter, professional pattern grader, and garment technologist.” 

Watch this video to, learn what industry experts have to say about a career in pattern drafting.

Historic Indian costumes and weaving techniques

Fashion draws inspiration from the past and historic costumes. Therefore, an aspiring designer needs to be well-aware about the subject of ‘Historic Costumes’. The study of fundamentals of historic Indian costumes gives resourceful insights to the students regarding fashion of a particular era. They can understand the fabric used in ancient times and the culture of the period. Understanding historic costume can trigger a student’s imagination to create something incredible. For example, the historical costumes of the Mughal period have inspired designers to reinvent sherwanis, churidars, and anarkalis.

              

But along with understanding historic costumes, understanding the weaving techniques that were used is also imperative. The basics of weaving are same today, as they were centuries ago. The two most important weaving techniques that an aspiring fashion and textile student should absolutely know about are the handloom and the power loom. Knitting follows the suit and holds high significance in historic costumes. Crochet, also adds to the list. Though not originally Indian, Crochet has evolved to be a significant technique in Indian fashion over generations.

Historic costumes and the weaving techniques are two of the most important topics for students of fashion and textile designing. The first draws inspirations through cultures of different eras and the latter gives an understanding of how fabrics were made. This knowledge is like raw material to an aspiring designer which provides an idea of the fabric, the draping capabilities, elasticity, and the prosperities of the fabric. As Jaishika Ratanpal, Faculty of Whistling Woods- Neeta Lulla School of Fashion says, “This is studying the evolution of fashion, how a garment evolves from a single drape to complete garments and without this knowledge a designer cannot design a new garment or fabric.”

Watch Jaishikha Ratanpal speak on evolution of historic costumes and why it is essential.