Friday, 28 March 2014

‘Revolution’-ary French Fashion

The French Revolution, a critical turning point in world politics, marked an era of strife, and this is visible in the simplicity of the clothing of that age as well. In 1791 mass production found favor and shops were established in Paris where ready-to-wear clothing was available. Economic constraints hindered the use of silks, velvets, ribbons and laces. Instead cheaper materials, especially cotton, became common. Rebels of both genders flaunted their patriotism by wearing the tricolor of Bleu, Blanc and Et Rouge (blue, white and red).


Social disparity was a major issue during the 1780s, and clothing is a symbol of status at times. In order to eradicate the aristocratic vestiges, a sort of ‘uniform’ was adopted. This included bed gowns, jackets flared out at the hip, skirts, petticoats, aprons, and neck cloths. 


Sober and darker colors emphasized the severity of the revolution. Mostly the tricolor or the national cockade appeared on every costume, it was exceedingly dangerous to be seen without it in the days when one government kept succeeding another.


The color black was the most prominent in men’s clothing, silk and velvet were replaced by cloth and leather. The masses came to be known as ‘Sans-culottes’, a phrase that referred to the ‘long trousers’ worn by the lower classes, which were celebrated in direct contradiction to the ‘knee breeches’ fashion of the aristocracy.



1795-99 was relatively calmer and some semblance of normalcy was gained. Disgruntled youth and artist ushered this regime in style. A new subculture of fashionable aristocratic held balls and started fashion trends, creating the Incroyables (incredible) men and their counterpart the Merveilleuses (marvelous women). 


Outrageous fashion was displayed by both Incroyables and Merveilleuses; the women wore light or even transparent linen and gauze, at times so revealing they were termed ‘woven air’ and dresses were straight or Empire line. Enormous hats and sandals were tied above the ankle with crossed ribbons or strings of pearls.


Men were eccentric, green jackets, wide trousers, huge neckties, thick glasses and hats topped by ‘dog ears’. But society took a more sober and modest turn at the end of this period. 


Niddhi Gala, a student of Whistling Woods Neeta Lulla School of Fashion, drew inspiration from the French and has created outfits of this revolutionary era. Studying the culture and understanding the fashion of the time, Niddhi’s creations have truly captured the essence of the French Revolution!    



  

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